Inside Grace Ling's New York Fashion Week Debut

With huge designer names largely absent from the New York Fashion Week calendar this season, a slew of emerging designers seized the opportunity to make their official debut, New York-based designer Grace Ling standing as one of the most anticipated newcomers to see. Largely exploding in popularity following a feature on UpNextDesigner, the Singapore-born designer brings a specific elevated edge to traditional minimalism, her signature hardware-accented designs already spotted on the likes of Karlie Kloss and Jennifer Lopez.

Landing not only a spot on the New York Fashion Week calendar for the first time, the Parsons School of Design and Central Saint Martins graduate held the week’s opening slot, showgoers buzzing with the excitement of experiencing the brand’s 3D printed and CGI designed creations beyond their Instagram screens. Titled "NEVERLAND," the collection was unveiled in the city’s industrial art district, tucked inside an immersive gallery. The location set the scene for models to emerge from the dark void onto the runway, the entire production bearing an almost cinematic essence. Revealing 30 alluring looks, the collection expanded on the dark and playful fantasy of Ling’s world-building, chock full of sophisticated shapes and surreal details representative of the designer’s unique penchant for balance and duality.


At the show’s open, there was a 3D-printed cage-like corset, followed by similar body-hugging molded chest pieces and bustiers with metallic detailing. Sprinkles of the brand’s quintessential metal touches were inevitable — sharp daggers, flowers, and metal piercings (which served functional purposes on garments as buttons and clasps) adorned slinky and draped silhouettes in a way that perfectly blends the hard with the feminine. Then, sharp, exaggerated tailoring appeared in leather, knits, and traditional suiting, showcasing geometric and rounded shoulders on blazers and jackets.

A trend continuing to progress on the runway in recent seasons, Ling explored the use of transparent fabrics with the development of ultra-sheer 'evanescence' knits which simultaneously revealed and covered the body strategically with geometric ombres. One of the collection’s most striking looks yet was a gown embellished with an intricate chest piece resembling two hands, seemingly and artfully holding the garment together.


As cult fans of the brand had hoped, Ling’s debut was successful in merging architectural and minimalist principles of design, while maintaining bold and playful details that contributed to a surrealist theme. The show closed in a similar way to a few others this season, with the designer’s subverted take on traditional bridal wear. Ling's iteration was seductive and twisted, a snug, floor-length, knit number that was indeed one piece, but outfitted with sheer paneling to create the illusion of a tube skirt and bandeau — a tangible representation of just how sartorially bold the Grace Ling client can be.